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Beam me up Scotty, the Starcraft has landed.

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    #16
    Some Ebay dealers can get to you and that did not sound a good experience.
    On the Teeing wiring thread gasgas recomended these connectors but crimps with shrinkwrap https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100x-Elec...oAAOSwSLtaqPdT
    I bought a hundred - they arrived today literally just when I needed two. Used them and the Bosch Hot Air Gun did the shrinking so they are good value.
    Tip from my kit car days Copperslip the contacts in the fuse box does wonders for eliminating volts drop.
    ​​​​​​​Jon

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      #17
      As I said earlier, The vehicle has been in storage for a long time. I think there have been several owners who have played with it and given up 001.JPG and it probably hasn't been on the road for the past twenty years or so. The ignition switch and steering lock are missing, leaving just the connecting block and a chopped up key to operate the ignition. I works, sort of..... The other day, I started it up as usual and it ran for a bit before cutting out altogether. Nothing else for it, I had to get the spanners out. Cleaning the points produced an improved spark but it still wouldn't run, so I pulled the spark plugs out. They were only in finger tight which wouldn't have helped, but three of them had very badly cracked porcelain. One cracked plug is normally enough to prevent a car from being driven, but three? All I can say is the rest of the engine must be in exceptionable condition to allow it to run like that. The only unusual thing I've noticed so far is that the oil is surprisingly clean.

      There is a plastic petrol can permanently fixed under the bonnet and connected into the fuel system so that it can run. The actual Cortina tank is mounted inside the habitation unit and I was told that it was leaking, so I've been looking at alternative tanks but haven't found anything suitable, and there isn't room under the floor to fit one. There is surprisingly little ground clearance. I can't come up with a better solution than what's there already so I took the tank out and gave it a clean. I had been warned that it leaked, but I counted twenty three pinholes in it. It had a lot of rust on the inside and the best way I could find of cleaning it was with a chimney sweeping brush powered by the electric drill. Flushed it out with the hosepipe and left it to dry for a few days. I've just given it a coat of tank sealant and I have to leave it to set for a minimum of 96 hours, after which I fill it with water and see if my efforts were worth it.

      003.JPG002.JPG003.JPG

      I've also had a go with the fibreglass and successfully repaired the lower floor and wheel arch around the bottom of the doorway. The door hanging is also proving promising, but more of that next time.



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        #18
        it seems ages since I last posted on here but lots of other stuff got in the way and we've been buying bits and pieces and running all over the place, so the actual job has been a bit slow. Anyway, I got the lower door to hang more or less how I want it. It's a but wobbly but I can beef it up a bit once I get the upper in place and get the two lined up.

        The door frame looks to be a professional job and fitted properly, but the doors have either come as a kit or someone has mended them very badly at some point. There is a slight curve in the shape and whoever did it has just screwed the fibreglass skin to a flat frame and filled the gaps up with a mixture of fibreglass filler, No More Nails and some other splodgy stuff which I can't identify. It was a mess and it's taken all day to clean it up.

        At this point I had better explain that I have just changed my laptop for in identical model which won't let me upload photographs, so I can't show you what I mean.

        The only tools I found which would make any impression were a wire wheel in the angle grinder, followed by a sanding disc in the electric drill to tidy the job up and level it ready to fit the new frame. (The sanding discs clog up very quickly so they are only suitable for finishing the job). After four hours I finally have a flat outer skin which I can work with.

        I have screwed the new side frames in place and the whole thing looks much nicer. Because of the slight curve of the body normal hinges don't work. They put a strain on the whole structure and sooner or later something is going to break. I've found a pair of Morris Minor Traveller rear door hinges which have a sort of ball joint arrangement built into them and are designed to cope with just this sort of arrangement. I also have a set of new balls and fittings for them in the hoard so everything is well on track.

        That's as far as I've got today folks. Back to it tomorrow.

        003.JPG005.JPG006.JPG007.JPG008.JPG010.JPG011.JPG

        Surprise surprise, my new computer is beginning to learn who's boss. Hope the pictures make sense.

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          #19
          Flipping heck, that's a job and a half there MYKE

          What a lot of patience you must have

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            #20
            Glad the photos uploaded Myke. You're working hard, well done!
            ______________
            Guardian of the Ducks
            2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Quack!

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              #21
              The upper door is finally in place and the Minor hinges are working well. There is still a lot of work to do to make it fit before I can start fibre glassing, but it's getting there. The lower door almost lines up too. Once I make the lower hinge solid everything should work ok. The main problem is that due to the severe angles of the body, there is a wide gap on the opening side of the door which needs to be covered, but at the same time leaving enough clearance to allow the door to swing open without catching the frame.

              I'll soon be able to lock it up.

              001.JPG002.JPG003.JPG

              The last picture shows the Morris Minor hinge in detail. It works in a sort of ball and socket so that it can follow any movement in the operating process without putting strain on either the door or the body.

              As for the hole at the side of the door, can anyone think of a more stupid place to put a fridge vent? My fridge certainly won't be getting fitted there.

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                #22
                Hi MYKE - fantastic. I think you are doing a great job. Re the fuel tank we had a simular problem with the Scamp - not too serious in the Scamp but not so good in a motorhome - especially with the gas fridge.

                One idea would be to mount the tank inboard / outboard - a tank for something like a Nissan Cabstar - a simple oblong cube - using wood and fibreglass create a compartment that has access from the outside - for servicing - and is sealed from the inside of the van - drop-out vents through the floor to get rid of fumes - standard filler through the side of the van above the tank.

                I hope you do not mind me making a suggestion.

                ​​​​​​​Jon

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                  #23
                  I'm putting a lot of thought into the fuel tank. The original tank is fully sealed and ready to re-fit but I share your thoughts Kernowjon. I am surprised that the tank has rusted so badly despite being mounted inside the bodywork where I would expect it to be protected. Apart from the dangers you describe the tank takes up an awful lot of useful space in the habitation area which could be used for better things. There is room behind the driver's seat in what used to be the rear footwell and if I can find a tank to fit, that will make a much better job of it and provide space for another seat / storage box where the old tank was. The problem is that the frame the tank sits in is welded onto the chassis and appears to be a part of it. I don't want to remove it until I'm certain that I have a better option.

                  I certainly don't mind suggestions. The more, the merrier. I don't know everything and every idea may be of help. Thanks.

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                    #24
                    MYKE - I don't know what budget you are working on - but have you seen these stainless steel tanks?
                    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Landrover...kAAOSwR5dXQwyX
                    As I recall the series one tank was onboard under the drivers seat.
                    Jon

                    Comment


                      #25
                      WOW!
                      Pity about the price. I remember when I was in the Army we went on an exercise in Libya and the drivers were keeping bottles of beer cool by packing them inside the Land Rover petrol tanks. I've seen as many as eight bottles inside a Land Rover tank. It's a wonder they had enough fuel to go anywhere.

                      I have a Morris eight tank which will fit more or less anywhere but it only holds five gallons. I don't know how far the Starcraft will go on that? Long term plans are to convert to LPG. but not until I have put it through an MOT test and made sure it's all ok. I suppose I could always carry a gallon or so in a tin like we used to do in the good old days just in case.

                      Today's main job was to tidy up and sweep all the rubbish out so I can see what I'm doing, Then a friend turned up and spent a couple of hours admiring and by the time he left it was tea time, so that was it except that I managed to shoehorn the fridge through the door. Now I can shuffle the fittings around and find the best layout for everything.

                      Tomorrow is shopping day so there won't be any more progress until Thursday.
                      Last edited by MYKE; 01-10-2018, 20:17.

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                        #26
                        MYKE this post is odd ramblings just jotting my thoughts as they come into my head.

                        Re mpg - My guess would be about 20 mpg (100 mile range on your Morris 8 tank) - the same engine in my Spartan sports car - pulling an Esterelle folding caravan used to be good for about 22 mpg - I do have a heavy right foot without the caravan it did about 26 / 27 mpg sometimes back down near 20 if we were thrashing around the Cornish Lanes.
                        I am somewhat surprised that over time - and the number of tinkerers your van has had owning it,- that no one had tried fitting the Sierra diesel engine.

                        I think if I had bought one (or if I get around SWMBO and find one) I would / will have gone for the petrol engine with a trusty BorgWarner autobox, no clutch and no clutch cable. At the moment I am tending to think the Rickman Rancher may be a better kit car motorhome - although the Starcraft beats it hands down on stunning looks.

                        Surely going to LPG you will face the same problems locating the GasTank and you will still need a small petrol tank.

                        Jon

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                          #27
                          What about having a custom tank made? A friend of mine recently had a custom alloy tank made for his TR4 which he uses to compete in historic touring car racing. I believe it was around the £250 mark but for that he got a precision made tank that fit the space perfectly
                          Better a rainy day on the hill than a sunny day in the office!

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                            #28
                            You might try CAK Tanks if you haven't already. http://www.caktanks.co.uk/
                            I know they do an amazing variety of water tanks, they have their own rotating moulding machine, but I don't know if the plastic would tolerate what nowadays passes for petrol which has all sorts of non-petrol stuff in it.
                            Blessed are those who find wisdom, those who gain understanding. Proverbs 3

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                              #29
                              001.JPG I managed to lock the door before we went off for the Ashbourne meet but it was touch and go. There was a very wide gap on the locking side of the door in order to provide clearance for the three inch thick frame. The latch was only just touching and I had to pack it out in order to fasten.

                              I finally got back to it yesterday and moved both the hinges and the lock so that they line up better, then it was a matter of re-building the door to make it look better. First job was to make the side rails thinner. The insulation is only an inch thick so there's no point struggling with a three inch thick door. I decided to extend the door skin to fit the aperture rather than move the frame, so door off and on the bench. I discovered that fibreglass resin doesn't stick to Post Office parcel tape so I stuck a couple of strips to a sheet of hardboard and clamped the door skin to it.before brushing a gel coat onto the edge of the job.

                              002.JPG003.JPG

                              When the gel coat had set, I started adding strips of glass mat until the extension was the same thickness as the rest of the skin, and then added a final layer over the joint to strengthen it. The new section is only a butt joint and will not have much strength without this reinforcing.

                              004.JPG005.JPG

                              As you can see, the parcel tape trick works a treat. However, the joint itself is still relatively weak, so I turned it over and bonded the whole thing to the wooden frame.

                              006.JPG007.JPG

                              All cleaned up, lock fitted and in place. Still some tidying to do, but looking much better and the lock works properly now.

                              Taking another break for the weekend camping in York. More when we get back folks.
                              Last edited by MYKE; 19-10-2018, 21:05.

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                                #30
                                Not much progress. I'm waiting for some rubber sealing strip to arrive so that I can line the door up properly and then make the frame fit the door.

                                Last time I had it running it suddenly stopped and wouldn't start again and I've tried several times since without success. I checked over the ignition system on Monday and couldn't find anything wrong, Decided that the battery was maybe a bit past it, and fitted another bigger one. I poured a drop of petrol? into the carburettor to help matters and it fired up immediately. But then it cut out after less than half a minute. A drop more fuel in the carb. and it did exactly the same again, so I checked the one gallon fuel tank and found it empty. Topped it up, and it now starts and runs a good as ever.

                                It's fitted with the infamous automatic choke which was trouble from the first day of production, so I've got the makings of a manual choke on order and hope this will prevent having to pour fuel into the carb. in future because apart from anything else, it's jolly damn well dangerous and I don't want to set fire to the thing before I get a chance to use it.

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