As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Solar panels (again) - some installation questions

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Solar panels (again) - some installation questions

    Right, stop mucking about Brian and get on with it, stick a semi-flexible solar panel to the roof of your R20 whilst it is sat on the drive for weeks?

    Some questions:

    Any thought on Sikaflex v something like butyl mastic for sticking the panel to the slightly curved R20 GRP roof? My worry is that should the panel fail at any time removing a Sikaflexed one might be a right royal pain. If Sikaflex then which type and any thoughts on how much I might need for a 100W panel (want to buy everything online in advance)

    Having the van sat on the drive has suggested a dual controller that will also keep the main vehicle battery topped up wouldn't be too much of an extra expense. Anyone done this and how do they interact (i.e. how do you fit them) when there is already the Zig charger in place. I'm assuming I can use the existing wiring back up to the cab (i.e. main battery)?

    Hints and tips, best way to drill GRP, thought on internal wire routing etc all appreciated.

    For goodness sakes Brian, the van is 10 years old with 80k miles on the clock, stop being so scared about drilling holes in it!


    #2
    I can only help with the sticking down. I had the same worry. I used 15mm wide about 2.5 mm thick butyl tape, which I already had used successfully with the midi rooflight. This never sets so you can remove it. Then in case the butyl did not stick down well enough I used stixall, my equivalent of sikaflex on the edges where I could reach it with a stanley knife to cut it in case of removal. You know you should not stick down with any unventilated but sealed voids under as air expansion in the void will blow the panel! I used my butyl and stixall only in longitudinal strips at about 100mm spacing. This makes vent channels to cool the panel which must extend its life. I built up the butyl in places so the semi flexible panel was only performing a smooth conic shape within the tolerance of the panel. They do not bend 2 ways at once (or sharply) and survive.
    Butyl tape comes on a roll with a length so you can work it out. I used much less than one cartridge stixall for the longitudinal outer beads, although they were thick in places.
    Last edited by Derekoak; 23-06-2020, 13:13.

    Comment


      #3
      I think the solar panel needs it own dedicated .Volt/ current/ Overload /. short circuit / over heat / protection.and battery type charge rate voltage selection. there are dedicated fittings for connection Cables through a roof ... you could smack a hole through with a hammer and gunge it up .save a few bob .
      BuzznDave

      Comment


        #4
        Brian I used Geocell Works - almost same as Sikaflex I followed the fore and aft dividing lines and sealed the front and both sides - the rear has no stick - this is so heat will not generate unwanted airpockets, damaging either panel or roof.

        I placed some 2.5 litre containers of water on top of the panel overnight and up to now (over 12 months later for this panel on the Suntrekker) there have been no problems. If you had to remove the panel you can do it without causing damage using a kitchen knife with a flexible blade.

        Drilling - if you want to be anal stick some gaffer tape onto the roof and drill through the tape.

        As you said *Come on Brian just do it!!!!!!!"

        Jon
        Support the NHS go to Just Giving

        Comment


          #5
          I used Sikaflex on my 2 x 100W panels. Yes, they would make a mess to remove but I believe the convention is to stick any replacements onto the original.

          Mine have a single controller, 30A ie allowing capacity for a 3rd panel but it wasn't necessary.

          My cabling is routed through the roof and the controller is in the facia behind the passenger seat.

          There were no issues drilling through the roof - we'd already done so for fitting the Fiamma roof vent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiJrWVjqQFA

          Comment


            #6
            We are thinking of a sola panel. We're not worried about the installation but what should we know about existing on the Leisure battery ?
            Do we just switch over to AUX?
            What can we run? Kettle, toaster, tv, iPad ?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Keka View Post
              We are thinking of a sola panel. We're not worried about the installation but what should we know about existing on the Leisure battery ?
              Do we just switch over to AUX?
              What can we run? Kettle, toaster, tv, iPad ?
              Hiya. The solar panel will only recharge your leisure battery and thus only provide power via the 12v sockets in your van, not any 240v household style plug sockets. Therefore you can't run your normal kettle or toaster. However you can recharge your iPad via the 12v auxiliary socket and use your tv via the same socket as long as it operates on 12 volts.

              A decent 12v telly pulls down about 1 amp so theoretically you could run it for 90 hours fom a 90 A/H battery, but lesure batteries don't like more than a 50% discharge so you're looking at about 45-50 hours. On a solar panel, you'd have no problem. Get the biggest solar panel you can fit on the roof.

              You could buy a 12v to 240v inverter, but you still can't run any kettle or or toaster as they would flatten the leisure battery in a very short time, or probably not operate at all.

              Panda
              https://www.youtube.com/user/pandabloke

              Comment

              320x50 mobile only under posts reg users

              Collapse

              728x90 google ad under posts desktop only reg users

              Collapse
              Working...
              X