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Derekoak new doblo xl camper

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    Originally posted by Derekoak View Post
    A long time ago now I got a BSc in Ergonomics, the formula for seat tilt was every 2 degree back for the back cushion one degree for the squab (seat). This feature is a copy of the old doblo to it is already tested.
    I notice you also recognise the need for relief between the front edge of the squab and the front face of the seat base.

    A pet hate of mine in many campers has been 90 degree box seat bases. Even an inch or so set back making them so much more comfortable.


      Originally posted by Dapple View Post

      I notice you also recognise the need for relief between the front edge of the squab and the front face of the seat base.

      A pet hate of mine in many campers has been 90 degree box seat bases. Even an inch or so set back making them so much more comfortable.
      That set back of the front face of the base 11.5cm a bit more than my designed 10cm, will be partly filled by easy access pockets hung off the base, but they do not have to be overstuffed so there is a chance to get your heels under you to help you up.
      Last edited by Derekoak; 12-02-2018, 08:54 PM.


        Here is something new to this model. I bought the doblo knowing it was about 100mm wider than the old , but that did not show on the inside. There is a bigger gap between the inside skin and the outside. Sticking a tape in a hole there is 130mm empty space. I put probes in and some spaces were 30cm x 60cm, so I finally got courage to join 2 slots together by jigsawing steel away until I could get my hand in.
        it seemed to me that I could fill the spaces with our 2 litre water bottles and other storage if I could make a big enough hole.
        Its a bit hard to see black on black, but here is a 2 litre bottle sitting on an inserted wooden shelf between the doblo walls, there is another just visible under the shelf, all in all this entrance gives room for 4 bottles or similar above the shelf and 3 below. I cut away the metal between 3 existing slots avoiding ribs and reinforcements.
        here's a better shot of the wooden shelf, scooped out so bottles can be inserted above and below, in the entrance but full width to the left, where the space is.
        here a bottle held on my toe for the photo, top disappearing upward on its way in, (or out).
        This new real estate means the base box of the table needs redesigning to keep suitable access to the entrance portal.
        there is another similar space on the other side of the car.


          That wall, you see here


          dropped down very quickly, forming the floor you see in the next pic, whilst the one behind came up, this one


          anyway, great scene change, Nabucco, normally those structures one designs from the ground up and does use the same dimensions on the underlying steel or whatsoever structure from top to bottom, not in that case, the structural members got thinner to the top otherwise it would not have been possible....a composite sandwich...with varying thickness....

          There where a lot of cables going through for light and sound, all planed, and the openings there, and then the sound guys found out that they have interference from the wires from the lighting department, and started to drill there own holes into that structure....which was cutting edge in certain respects....lightweight and so on...

          They got a bollocking......they did not understand why....well, sound guys...took a while to repair...

          Just an association I have.....forgive me....can't explain why it popped up....
          Last edited by NiedrigerIQ; 14-02-2018, 12:37 AM.


            I can understand! the wiring loom runs through that space and rerouting and clipping it,(and not catching the wires with the jigsaw ) took a lot of time.
            Deciding to cut anything out of a structural frame , my car, takes thought. Structurally some parts of the inner skin are now more flexible. I intend the wooden shelf to be stixalled to the outer skin in the end. That will make a new bridge across the skins and stiffen both skins?
            To avoid scratching ourselves on the edges off the hole I will stixall a rounded wooden stiffener to the sides of the hole. That will help too.
            Last edited by Derekoak; 14-02-2018, 08:48 AM.


              You’ve ripped out the plastic ‘lining’? Ive been tempted but don’t want to do anything irreversible. Any idea if it’s possible to remove the plastic panels non-destructively?


                Well yes. I think I could have put the linings back with 95% of fixings still working. I Still have the linings. I could send a photo of the back so you could see which ones were barbed prongs which Velcro and which were different


                  Better photos, this is the passenger side, the seat belt fixings will never go back, the inertia reel went in the hollow , the lump on its right is the end of the sliding door track (one of our restrictions when it is a bed). you can see 3 of the 6 bottles in the space
                  I have not affected the solidity of the door pillar on the right.
                  here is the other side.
                  I cut 2 oval holes into one where the loom goes through. On the other side I joined these 2 holes to the smaller one above to make something of a parallelogram. You can see the multitude of fixings for the inertia reel and seat clip above the entrance area. This seat belt will be kept. On this side there will also be my lpg filler pipe going through to the external fill point above the back wheel in a vented outer pipe.


                    You are braver (and more experienced than me Derek).

                    As for removing the plastic trims - ours were only held on with plastic clips - a few clips got broken in the process but were replaced for a couple of pounds from Ebay. If I was going to do it again, I think I would buy the plastic tool kit for doing the job. It is only about £10 and would make the job easier than raiding my husbands workshop and garage for substitute tools.


                      Here is a cardboard model made of cardboard templates of the new more complicated bottom table box. Last time I designed with sketchup 3d sketches, this time I just used graph paper then went straight in to cardboard templates. I am quite good at imagining 3d shapes in my head, but I cannot predict everything that is revealed by building a full size cardboard model
                      there are toe spaces each side so there is a base and then a main floor. We will store shallow boxes in a cardboard drawer in the lower space. The top is made of 2 layers of 9mm ply to make a step for the settee base to land in when converted to bed. The wings along the wall are to support our memory foam mattress topper rolled up along the wall during the day
                      here is the new storage space behind, the front of which allows access to my NEW between car skins water bottle storage.
                      here the other side 30 cm space for feet between the cooks seat and the table base. The top table box drops in here in bed mode.


                        My wife has joined in the conversion, we decided my attempt at hanging woodwork between the driver and passenger seats to carry storage (available when driving and from the back when campering) would be better as material. So she bought some cheap car seat covers and added pockets, 20180214_152246-600x800.jpg
                        a similar top pocket will be added to the drivers seat, a lower pocket too would catch the drivers elbow when putting on the handbrake.
                        They are made of reasonably stiff fabric and have a back to make them easy to transfer to new covers if these wear or get too dirty.


                          I like that idea Derek. I made new fleece covers for our Duo last year and I am sorely tempted to take them off and sew on a couple of pockets. I'm always mislaying my specs or telephone or the small clock that I use my side of the van at night. While I'm about it I suppose I could add a pocket on the back of the head rest for my Kindle storage at night

                          I feel a sewing session coming on!!


                            Yes we store charger leads and spectacles in those pockets.
                            night time pockets his and hers on the back of the seats are also planned , watch, glasses, car key, book or kindle, head torch, hankie......


                              Day before Yesterday in cardboard today in ply. This is the bottom table box

                              The top ply is loose and needs a bigger bit. It is not totally screwed together and has dropped at the front a bit. The next shows a little leg there only in case I can move the table outside on the ground in good conditions.
                              Hopefully this triangle will make a more stable base. The next shows the settee lowered to bed position. This makes it clear that the top loose rectangle will make a step that will make the bed base flush. You must imagine the ply of the table top across the passage to the galley on the other side. Thus there is a step to be determined at the front edge of the bottom table box as well as the settee side.
                              That shows how the corner cut out of the settee seat will be supported. The next photo is the bed.
                              Here is one side of the bed platform. You can see a gap under the straight edge over the cooks seat, showing that the table bottom box is about 1cm too high. I have to take it apart and cut a cm off. The missing space, between table and cooks seat, will be filled by the top table box. That is the next task.


                                I have been waiting for our last camper trip to be over before I could start removing things from the blue doblo. That last trip was cancelled due to bad weather. So I can start taking things out. The first needed is the fridge. One advantage of the new conversion we know we would like more fridge vegetable storage, so the fridge space has been heightened and the rebate in the back that we bought the original fridge for so that it would fit over a wheelarch can be included in the fridge volume making a 50 litre fridge more like 75. The original fridge cost 600 pounds and has been very efficient freezing for very little electricity
                                here I have chopped the bits of carcass in the way of the extension. The thermostat position has gone it is dangling on the back. Previously I had to move the compressor, which was in the rebate at the back,but to the side. You can see it on the side. The black hose is insulation with the pipework inside. It was rerouted and will have to be moved again. The compressor will hopefully end up horizontal and about where the thermostat is.
                                A front view, the door and interior shelves have been removed for ease.
                                Tomorrow I will start reconstruction using bits of steel sheet that I have collected from a defunct boiler and computer case scavenged before being thrown away


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