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    #16
    do you intend having a door on the front of the battery box ?
    As with the cost of a decent battery, i cannot see your being there for long if not !

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      #17
      Originally posted by Donk's Dad View Post
      do you intend having a door on the front of the battery box ?
      As with the cost of a decent battery, i cannot see your being there for long if not !
      Thanks for your concern Yes that will be put on after the wiring is completed - I have an old flight box the type used for amplifiers - so I am going to cut out covers for both batteries. Being lazy I am going to fasten both in place using cable ties - so once fastened they will be semi-permanent.
      Re theives there is little else I can do. Unless I install a motion sensing alarm - and that will go off everytime the wind blows - I had one on my kit car and it was forever triggering in the wind etc.
      I may try for some simple contact switches held in - pressure on it is off - pressure off it is on - someone releases the door / cover and the alarm will trigger

      Jon
      Support the NHS go to Just Giving

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        #18
        I think a door will help

        out of sight ---out of mind

        If the tow rags dont see it the probably wont have the brains to nick it !

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          #19
          It is the trouble - there is little else that we can do. After the wiring / plumbing in - the next task will be Spring Assisters - sooner or later it will be completed. Or will it because after the suspension I may go for a Gaslow set-up. I think the dumpy cylinder will just fit!
          Jon
          Support the NHS go to Just Giving

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            #20
            Hi both myself and Sandra have been ill with virus's (should I write virri?) so no progress until today
            The Spring Assister Kit arrived from Custom Campers last week. Today I went to Ubique DiY garage to fit it - fully equipped workshop instead of outside my house on a sloping gravelly patch!

            From the start there were minor niggles - more than niggles when the kit including postage has cost over £300 - first one of the 6mm bolts and nut for the clamps was missing. Second when we went to fit the nearside we discovered the spare wheel carrier bracket was fouling it - the problem was solved by moving it back an inch - but it was an unexpected problem. Finally the large 10mm bolts that fasten the upper cup to the chassis, (one for each cup) were about 10mm too short. Fortunately Reg has a big box of surplus bolts and we used 2 Audi pinch bolts.

            After that fitting was a doddle. Top cup absolutely straight forward. - the lower cup is fiddly. We put a scissor jack between the top of the axle where the Bump Stop monce was and the chassis and opened the space as far as the spring would comfortably go. The spring compressor only needed to compress the centre coils to reduce the length by about two and a half inches or 6cm. Between plentiful cups of tea I took about 2.5 hours to do the job.

            The Clockwork Orange's **** is about 3 inches higher, she has a nose down attitude and she does not bang the chassis every time she hits a bump - so that is what we call in Cornwall proper job
            Pictures and video to follow!
            Jon
            Support the NHS go to Just Giving

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              #21
              Well done to get it all sorted.

              Mine were a ""bargain" then.

              All they cost me were 4 x 4mm nut and bolts to secure the bottom cups and 2 x 8mm nut and boltsto secure the top cups !

              Then my friend the Blacksmith who fabricated the cups for me as a favour told me he has bolts in his workshop too. so i had to shell out nearly £1.50

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                #22
                Originally posted by Donk's Dad View Post
                Well done to get it all sorted.

                Mine were a ""bargain" then.

                All they cost me were 4 x 4mm nut and bolts to secure the bottom cups and 2 x 8mm nut and boltsto secure the top cups !

                Then my friend the Blacksmith who fabricated the cups for me as a favour told me he has bolts in his workshop too. so i had to shell out nearly £1.50
                Are you enjoying bringing tears to my eyes?
                Incidentaly the cups are flat inside, part of the kit is 4 round pieces of 3mm rubber sheet the instruction is to grease them and lay them at the bottom / top of the cups.
                I drilled drain holes in the bottom cups as Reg pointed out otherwise they would fill with water and become rust traps.
                The whole vehicle looks so much better without the tail dragging.

                Jon
                Support the NHS go to Just Giving

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                  #23
                  Important update on the Spring Assisters

                  We went out in the van today - no where special, clocked up about 25 miles. When we got home I removed the rear wheels and checked the clamps holding the bottom cups to the springs - 4 bolts tighten each clamp holding the cup - all the bolts needed a tweak.
                  The need to retighten is not mentioned in the fitting instructions - please remember to do so!
                  Jon
                  Support the NHS go to Just Giving

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                    #24
                    I am very jealous!!!!

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by llywelyn1984 View Post
                      I am very jealous!!!!
                      You either have to open the Piggy Bank - or alternatively find a welder fabricator to make up the bits. I am envious about how little Donk's Dad spent!:blank: The ride is totally different - also because we were no longer knocking on the Bump Stop it was a lot quieter and without jarring bumps - she does wallow a bit - maybe we need to think about new shockers although there is no signs of a leak.
                      The springs uncompressed were 27cm long. Even using the scissor jack I could not get the spring in without compressing a centre section - compressors hooked on about 2 turns from the top and 2 turns from the bottom.
                      Support the NHS go to Just Giving

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                        #26
                        I've worked out how I will do it but it involves cutting the bump stops off...I'm not sure how hard that will be. I assume they will cut easily.
                        I think with mates special kit I'd need to cut out some of the axle girder thing so I'll try mine first.

                        I also have plans to raise the bed by a few mm with some ply to move the Luton well away from the cab.

                        Of course it's time I'm really short of.

                        I'm still thinking caravan for next year.

                        Any pictures?!

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                          #27
                          Think the bump stops are part of the MOT

                          My Wife had a RAV4 that fails as one was missing and we had to replace it and get a re-test !

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by llywelyn1984 View Post
                            I've worked out how I will do it but it involves cutting the bump stops off...I'm not sure how hard that will be. I assume they will cut easily.
                            I think with mates special kit I'd need to cut out some of the axle girder thing so I'll try mine first.

                            I also have plans to raise the bed by a few mm with some ply to move the Luton well away from the cab.

                            Of course it's time I'm really short of.

                            I'm still thinking caravan for next year.

                            Any pictures?!
                            When you are talking about bump stops - have you got on the Suzuki the same piece of metal projecting down from the chassis which hits on the rubber bump stop. I guess taking that off is an angle-grinder job. The actual Rubber Bump Stop will just twist off.

                            I hope they are not an MoT fail. I think as the suspension is modified the tester has to assume what is there is what is meant to be there by design, if one Bump Stop was missing the other was not then a fail - No Bump Stops I think will be OK.

                            After all technically we have changed the gross load of the vehicle, but no-one has said the vehicle needs to visit a ministry test station for re-rating.

                            Jon
                            Support the NHS go to Just Giving

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                              #29
                              I wouldn't remove the piece of metal projecting down from the chassis which hits on the rubber bump stop. this looks to be a thicker metal and when the suspension goes BANG :i am really glad it is.

                              If you follow my guide there is NO alteration to the vehicle, everything just Bolts on "as is".

                              And would take longer to jack up each side than un-bolt the assisters.

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by Donk's Dad View Post
                                I wouldn't remove the piece of metal projecting down from the chassis which hits on the rubber bump stop. this looks to be a thicker metal and when the suspension goes BANG :i am really glad it is.

                                If you follow my guide there is NO alteration to the vehicle, everything just Bolts on "as is".

                                And would take longer to jack up each side than un-bolt the assisters.
                                That is a ditto if using the Custom Campers set-up. When I mentioned removal of metal piece I was merely attempting to answer Llewelyn's question - the only reason I removed a Bump Stop is because one is missing and on the Custom Campers set up I do not think hitting the Bump Stop is possible. If it is I will refit using a couple of surplus Polybushes stuck in place on their sides.

                                Jon
                                Support the NHS go to Just Giving

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