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  • Rob B
    replied
    Originally posted by Hadrian Briggs View Post
    http://www.mksclassic.co.uk

    This is his website.
    Take a look at his work.
    He was expecting a pile of rust on the back of a trailor, but was surprised when it had an mot.
    He had it up on the ramps and showed me all the corrosion points.
    He told me not to worry as it is basically a c15 van with a box on the back.
    He said most of it is just cosmetic.
    He was more worried about the oil on the back springs and the split cv boots.
    It's only the cab that he is repairing and respraying.
    It's not as if it's a rare and exotic motor.
    I have total faith in the guy and I did snap his hand off.
    He is dead genuine and told me to enjoy the rest of the summer, then bring it to him in October.
    I shall keep you all updated.
    Well it looks as though you may have found a genuine chap and a good deal so best of luck with it

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  • Hadrian Briggs
    replied
    http://www.mksclassic.co.uk


    This is his website.
    Take a look at his work.
    He was expecting a pile of rust on the back of a trailor, but was surprised when it had an mot.
    He had it up on the ramps and showed me all the corrosion points.
    He told me not to worry as it is basically a c15 van with a box on the back.
    He said most of it is just cosmetic.
    He was more worried about the oil on the back springs and the split cv boots.
    It's only the cab that he is repairing and respraying.
    It's not as if it's a rare and exotic motor.
    I have total faith in the guy and I did snap his hand off.
    He is dead genuine and told me to enjoy the rest of the summer, then bring it to him in October.
    I shall keep you all updated.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ian.C.S
    replied
    Originally posted by Hadrian Briggs View Post
    Well I took my 1987 romahome to mks classic restoration in leeds last Friday.
    He has been underneath and inspected the whole of the cabin.
    The van cost me £2000.
    Knowing that I intend to keep the van for a few years, he said he will do the whole cab.
    That's welding new floors, sills, sorting doors, bonnet, around the inner wings, outer wings, around the window, the lot.
    He said it will cost no more than £2000 for all the work doing.
    That also includes respray of the cab.
    He is leaving the pod alone.
    I am happy with that and he is starting the work in October.
    That will be £4000 for a becoming classic citroen c15 romahome in tip top condition ��
    I think thats a good price for a lot of work,I would smack his hand and go for it! Good luck and I hope to meet with you at the Spring Rally if not before.

    Ian

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  • GeeCee
    replied
    Originally posted by Twolitre View Post
    Underseal is just a rubberised coating intended to seal all lapped structural joints etc. (e.g. those which are overlapped and spot welded) . And to bounce off any impacting stones/debri from the road. It will seal in any dampness already there or finding its way from the untreated side of a lap joint. Thus, over the years perhaps even encouraging corrosion.
    Waxoyl, like any mineral oil will expel water from the surface. I knew lots of people who used their old engine oil very successfully - recoating the underside of their vehicle periodically. Very messy though!
    Waxoyl has, I believe corrosion inhibitors in it as well as expelling damp.
    The company developed aplicators based on plastic tubing which could be inserted through breather holes in cills to coat the inside - which probably did not receive paint when the vehicle was built and sprayed on the visible surface during manufacture (out of sight - out of mind).

    Oh, and NO. I do not have any connection with the firm except that I used it 30 YEARS (yes THIRTY) ago on my car.
    As far as I an concerned "the proof of the pudding............................."
    Jim

    Looking back at the previous post. I cannot subscribe to the opinion of your advisor. The parts of my car which I treated were already 16 years old - which now makes them FORTY SIX years old!
    I had an NG TA tourer kit car which I built in 1990 from a 1972 saloon MG B. All useful parts were salvaged for reconditioning (the original car was only suitable for scrap), the remains of the rust riddled body thrown away and a dedicated chassis was used for the rebuild. Originally it had no chassis. The dedicated chassis was of box section and I drilled a small hole at the rear on top of each chassis side and every time I serviced it I poured the old engine oil into the chassis. Having very little body, the chassis was easily viewable and accessible to make sure the outside of the chassis was free of rust and touched up when necessary. I sold that car 3 years ago, no time to drive it now I motorhome, and it was showing not a scrap of rust. If parked on a slope it did drip a spot or two of oil from the spring hanger bolt holes, so I always parked on the level where it never dropped any. Graham (and Carole)

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  • Twolitre
    replied
    Underseal is just a rubberised coating intended to seal all lapped structural joints etc. (e.g. those which are overlapped and spot welded) . And to bounce off any impacting stones/debri from the road. It will seal in any dampness already there or finding its way from the untreated side of a lap joint. Thus, over the years perhaps even encouraging corrosion.
    Waxoyl, like any mineral oil will expel water from the surface. I knew lots of people who used their old engine oil very successfully - recoating the underside of their vehicle periodically. Very messy though!
    Waxoyl has, I believe corrosion inhibitors in it as well as expelling damp.
    The company developed aplicators based on plastic tubing which could be inserted through breather holes in cills to coat the inside - which probably did not receive paint when the vehicle was built and sprayed on the visible surface during manufacture (out of sight - out of mind).

    Oh, and NO. I do not have any connection with the firm except that I used it 30 YEARS (yes THIRTY) ago on my car.
    As far as I an concerned "the proof of the pudding............................."
    Jim

    Looking back at the previous post. I cannot subscribe to the opinion of your advisor. The parts of my car which I treated were already 16 years old - which now makes them FORTY SIX years old!
    Last edited by Twolitre; 19-08-2014, 10:16. Reason: Addition.

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  • jayjay
    replied
    Originally posted by Twolitre View Post
    Back in the 1950/60s Underseal was regarded as the bee's knees for stopping rust.
    However, when I was MOT testing in later years is was not uncommon to find cars with underseal looking immaculate underneath. But the underseal was VERY often hiding VERY SERIOUS corrosion by trapping all the rust scale in place behind the underseal coating.
    Jim.
    Last time I took my car for a service, the chap tried to sell me a waxoiling for another £90... not having the money at the time, I thought I might get around to doing it later.

    Then I took it for it's MOT and was asking the MOT chap about this. He said that waxoiling my elderly car would just trap whatever rust was there and it would carry on rusting underneath it. He said waxoiling was only good if the car/van was pretty new and not rusty to start with. So I didn't have it done after all. Not sure if underseal is the same thing, is it?

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  • Twolitre
    replied
    Originally posted by Rob B View Post
    Not to dampen your spirits but the price this restorer has quoted seems very cheap. I have been involved in restoring old cars in some way or another all my life and I am painfully aware of How much body and paint repairs cost. Admittedly I don't know much about C15s so perhaps they are able to be repaired cheaply but it does seem a very low price for all the Work you mention. A decent respray can be thousands of pounds alone. Have you seen examples of his work? I think I would want to be sure of what I was getting for that price before handing over any dosh.

    I wish you well with the restoration
    I used to manage a repair garage and also operated taxis. Generally we did our own repairs and bodywork.
    When a new road (The Chesterfield Inner By-pass) obliterated our premises we were unable to find suitable premises for all our operations.
    We continued with taxis but except for minor repairs and servicing were unable to manage bigger repairs like accident damage.
    We had a Metro Cab fairly heavily damaged in an accident and the insurance company agreed to a repair, but specified one particular repairer (ADT).
    I was shocked by the quoted cost! I KNOW that in our previous premises we could have done an equal repair at ONE THIRD of the cost.
    I am afraid many car body repair companies are inflating repair costs enormously and our insurance premiums with them.
    One thing I AM sure of is that cost DOES NOT ALWAYS MEAN QUALITY.
    Jim.

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  • Rob B
    replied
    Not to dampen your spirits but the price this restorer has quoted seems very cheap. I have been involved in restoring old cars in some way or another all my life and I am painfully aware of How much body and paint repairs cost. Admittedly I don't know much about C15s so perhaps they are able to be repaired cheaply but it does seem a very low price for all the Work you mention. A decent respray can be thousands of pounds alone. Have you seen examples of his work? I think I would want to be sure of what I was getting for that price before handing over any dosh.

    I wish you well with the restoration

    Leave a comment:


  • Hadrian Briggs
    replied
    Well I took my 1987 romahome to mks classic restoration in leeds last Friday.
    He has been underneath and inspected the whole of the cabin.
    The van cost me £2000.
    Knowing that I intend to keep the van for a few years, he said he will do the whole cab.
    That's welding new floors, sills, sorting doors, bonnet, around the inner wings, outer wings, around the window, the lot.
    He said it will cost no more than £2000 for all the work doing.
    That also includes respray of the cab.
    He is leaving the pod alone.
    I am happy with that and he is starting the work in October.
    That will be £4000 for a becoming classic citroen c15 romahome in tip top condition 😃

    Leave a comment:


  • Twolitre
    replied
    Mike,
    I waxoiled my Gentry Chassis 30 years ago using the plastic tube which came with a container which was pressurised with a built-in hand pump. Although the tube, which could be inserted via breathing holes into the chassis. looked Heath Robinson with just what looked like a small nail stuck in the end it produced an umbrella shaped spray. Inserting the tube as far as possible and withdrawing it slowly gve a very satisfactory coating of Waxoyl. I tested it in a short length of palstic drainpipe at the time.
    I have this year actually had a very small piece of plate welded on. The only repair in 30 years. And Triumph Herald and Vitesse Chassis (as mine is) being fairly thin pressed and spot welded structiure are not noted for long life.
    Jim

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  • mikeroch
    replied
    Waxoyl ....

    I sympathise with your rusty sills, heard a horror story about a chap looking to do his own repair, brazing new sills in place in his garage with oxy/acetylene kit borrowed from work. Set light to car, car sets light to garage, fire spreads to house, house burned out. I'm sure his missus appreciated that he was only trying to save a few bob. Problem with these repairs is that when sills get to falling-off condition, often the surviving metal to which you want to weld / braze is like tissue paper itself.

    I live less than a kilometer from the sea, all the local vehicles rust like billyo so I bought a thundering great 25kg tub of black waxoyl to do the underside of my 'new' (pre-registered 2012 delivery mileage) van. I gazed apprehensively at the black gloopy sludge thinking "on my back with a brush underneath doing every nook and cranny is going to be beast of a job" when it came to me that 10 years ago I bought a Low Pressure High Volume (LPHV) hobbyists sprayer driven by a blower not unlike a vacuum cleaner which has a 'proper' aluminium spraygun with its own pot. Dug it out from the depths of the garage, amazed that it still worked, warmed up a big pan of gloop on a gas ring and found that it sprayed like a good-un'. I've since heard that if you need it thinner still, a shot of White Spirit does the trick. It's comforting to know that Jim rates it above underseal.

    Job done effectively in very short order with minimum mess ... but ... I've yet to devise a proper means of doing the box section cavities. The little floppy wand thingy that I've seen supplied as part of a kit with gallon cans of waxoyl looks a bit feeble, so I've got to devise something. If I owned a proper compressor there are plenty of long-reach cavity guns available for sensible money to do the job, but I'm disinclined to buy a compressor too. Thinking cap on ...........
    Last edited by mikeroch; 16-08-2014, 09:08.

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  • Twolitre
    replied
    Originally posted by cedas View Post
    I guess it depends on how they have been looked after - mine just sailed through its MOT (again) and garage man asked me if I kept it in a garage as it is in such good condition underneath. No I don't have a garage and I live in a windy wet place. I think it was undersealed from new and I have had it waxoiled since. Yes I do get little spots of rust around the corners of the windows in the doors and on the joins of the sill near the door but very little and I keep on top of that myself - cleaning it up and retouching each year. Fingers crossed I'll get a good few years out of it. But then mine is only 14 years old -
    Back in the 1950/60s Underseal was regarded as the bee's knees for stopping rust.
    However, when I was MOT testing in later years is was not uncommon to find cars with underseal looking immaculate underneath. But the underseal was VERY often hiding VERY SERIOUS corrosion by trapping all the rust scale in place behind the underseal coating.
    I well rember a Ford Anglia where a rear spring punched through the floor. The other side spring mounting appeared and sounded solid when tapped with a hammer. When it was clobbered with a larger hammer that mounting almost literally exploded and the end of THAT spring did a duplicate of the other side.
    Pity - It was a beautifully looking and cared for car.
    In my opinion - Waxoyling the inside of sills and box sections etc. is a very good idea. But undersealing the outside is less effective than touching up with paint or oiling or greasing (very messy though (.
    Jim.

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  • cedas
    replied
    I guess it depends on how they have been looked after - mine just sailed through its MOT (again) and garage man asked me if I kept it in a garage as it is in such good condition underneath. No I don't have a garage and I live in a windy wet place. I think it was undersealed from new and I have had it waxoiled since. Yes I do get little spots of rust around the corners of the windows in the doors and on the joins of the sill near the door but very little and I keep on top of that myself - cleaning it up and retouching each year. Fingers crossed I'll get a good few years out of it. But then mine is only 14 years old -

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  • holly
    replied
    RUST

    hello there , i don't want to be a wet blanket here . but i have had two C15s . both of them suffered from the dreaded rust . the first one more than the second . every spring and every autum i had to go around with the rust killer and anti rust paint . the last straw on the first was a bill for £ 400 for welding and under seal . sentiment apart and i know that is not easy cos you do get attached to the van ( like a little home from home ) but if it were me i would get it through an MOT and move it on . if you like the C15 base , then look around to find one with no rust . ( yes they are out there ) or better still save your money and get a belingo based romahome . i think that once the rust is in a C15 , you are throwing good money after bad . i am sure this is not some thing that you want to hear and i hope it all works out for you . luck ??? HOLLY

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  • Hadrian Briggs
    replied
    How did you get on with the sills getting welded?
    My sills are corroded and I am going to get a quote tomorrow to get them and other parts seen to by a classic car restorator in leeds.
    The van has cost me £2000 for a 1987 model.
    I don't mind ploughing another 2 or 3 grand in to get it looking lovely again.
    I just need to source a few bits for inside the pod.
    I live in Bradford.

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