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Re- Rubbering / Sealing fixed Romini front window

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    Re- Rubbering / Sealing fixed Romini front window

    ROMINI WINDOW ….Rubber seal replacement … fixed front window

    Belting rain on a trip to the Hebrides revealed a steady leak into the interior on the front window, made worse by wind pressure when it became necessary to tow the van against the weather. Something had to be done, a job I didn’t fancy but it had to be DIY because, being 100 miles north of Inverness, there isn’t a ‘local’ fixer of such things. Emboldened by 35 years teaching Design & Tech I convinced myself that it couldn’t be too much of a pain. I was wrong. Hope this helps someone else doing the same job.

    The old rubber had hardened and someone had at some stage prised up the edges and worked quantities of regular Silicone sealant underneath, there was nothing for it but to start from scratch.

    • 4 metres of rubber seal by courier from ‘Seals Direct’ set me back £65
    • A tube of Sikoflex Caravan sealant / adhesive for £12 off EBAY

    • The window is the regular 4ft wide affair as supplied, it is double glazed and the two halves are bonded together creating a flange all around some 5-6mm thick.

    • Gently does it getting the window out, pull out the filler strip first and if necessary slice the rubber to aid removal. Handle window with care, it is acrylic and probably even more brittle than normal because of its age.
    • Remove all old sealant from window flange and caravan body
    • Go around the edges of the window flange and file / sand a small bevel so that it does not have a sharp square edge…. This will aid fitting into the new rubber seal.
    • Warm up the new rubber, leaving it in the sun is good, the more flexible the better. Note the filler strip groove, this goes on the outside.
    • Start fitting it to the centre of the BOTTOM edge of the window opening working it tightly around the corners. STAPLEGUN the inside rubber leaf to the wooden caravan lining. These staples can removed later but are ESSENTIAL to retaining your sanity during the upcoming challenge of fitting the plastic window.
    • Cut the rubber such that the cut faces are tight enough to push closely against each other, seal with a bit of Sikoflex. CUTTING: It’s quite tough stuff and hard to do cleanly, I experimented on the old rubber and found my garden tree-lopper shears were ideal.
    • Wet the rubber and lightly lubricate the groove with washing up liquid.
    • Put wine/beer in fridge, you’ll need it either to commiserate with yourself after repeated failures or to celebrate success. It took me two days of frustration before I sussed the staplegun trick, which turned the job from being a total nightmare into nothing more than a Pain.
    • You’ll need a second pair of hands … recruit someone reasonably strong, patient and who does as they are told!!
    • You can bet your boots that the curvature of your window is not exactly the same as that of the van so persistence is necessary to get them to be nice to each other. Having started to locate the bottom flange in the groove you’ll need to work it in with something strong but soft that won’t damage the rubber. Plastic bike tyre levers are good, I used the handle end of various bits of cutlery.
    • It’s a bit like fitting a bike tyre, there are moments when it goes smoothly and occasions when it puts up a fight. You’ll find yourself mostly working from the outside with your assistant applying pressure while you tyre-lever away BUT….. I found that there comes a moment toward the end of the task when going inside and working the rubber from there cause it to pop nicely into place.
    • Go around the rubber nudging it into place and ensuring that the window flange is evenly seated. Let it dry off completely.
    • Ease back the rubber and work Sikoflex into all grooves and under the outer rubber leaf, do not wipe off anything that squeezes out, it can be knifed away when dry.
    • Lightly lubricate the filler strip with washing up liquid and work it into place. You can buy a proper tool for this but I didn’t bother, it’s a tough job because the filler strip’s function is to add pressure to the rubber gripping the window and the bodywork. IMPORTANT: Put the filler strip joint 180 degrees out of phase with the main rubber joint, ie. At the TOP.
    • When fully dried test with hosepipe, if it works OK drink wine/ beer, if it doesn’t then keep away from sharp tools, cliff edges and lie in a darkened room until you have calmed down.

    Last edited by mikeroch; 31-07-2013, 12:13.

    Hope I'll never need to know, but its good to know about it if I did! Thanks


      Hi Mike,
      This thread is of particular interest now I realise it is about a Romini problem - though not exclusively.
      I think your report on how to do it could be usefully added to the technical/manuals section.
      Keeping people waiting is stealing a part of their lives.


        Freedom tip ...

        This may also be of interest..... an easier job than the Romini , and a simpler profile strip, obviously, but here you go.......

        I have to renew the edging rubber on my pop-top on the Micro, and got an original strip from Freedom, around 3.5m I think . I've striped off the old, which I saw had some sort of adhesive on it at some stage, and had lasted well, and looked original, and thought I saw a messy job coming up .........
        When I rang Freedom for advice, they said they used good quality bath silicon sealant, rather than adhesive as such. It is squeezed into the "crease/fold" of the strip, which slides easily over the fibre glass edge of the top. It can be finished off neatly should it squidge out with damp fingers.
        An obvious solution, when you think about it, almost made for the job !

        Might have it done by Devon ..... :blank:


          the seal


          I have the same problem do you have the size/ type number for the seal.
          Im just not young enough to know it all


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