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    #31
    Just been 4 miles in it. Top radiator pipe got scorching hot and right side of Radiator fins also. Left side and plastic part and coolant still cold. Also hot air venting in car within 30 seconds. V worried now. Is there anyone who can help with this?!

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      #32
      Classic sign of the thermostat being stuck - the coolant is not circulating -

      Quick explanation - the thermostat controls the flow of coolant - when the engine is cold the thermostat is closed preventing the coolant from flowing - when the engine is hot the thermostat opens and the coolant flows through the radiator.

      Note Coolant is a 50/50 mix of Distilled Water and Anti-Freeze.

      The thermostat is cheap and fairly simple to replace.

      Jon
      Amor omnia vincit et nos cedamus amori

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        #33
        Can you give any more advice Jon?
        I've still also got the actual radiator losing drips of fluid. Which is adding a connecting problem I'm sure.

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          #34
          In the photograph you posted the thermostat is under the metal housing on the end of the hosepipe on the right.
          Some are the old simple type and cost under a fiver to buy. You can get away with just removing the thermostat, in which case the engine will tend to run cold and take longer to get up to temperature. But it won't do any harm.
          It would be a good idea to flush the system while you have the hose disconnected though.
          The later engines have the thermostat built into the housing and of course they are more expensive. (About £25).
          It's not a difficult job to do, or to get at.

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            #35
            Originally posted by Rickyroma View Post
            Just been 4 miles in it. Top radiator pipe got scorching hot and right side of Radiator fins also. Left side and plastic part and coolant still cold. Also hot air venting in car within 30 seconds. V worried now. Is there anyone who can help with this?!
            I think before changing the thermostat a quick test of the water pump would give you some more info, I'm a bit concerned that any part of the radiator has got hot with the thermostat shut and the top hose should not have that much hot water in it, it may have some if the thermostat is stuck part open. The water pump vanes have been known to shear off and stop pumping water round the system, the symptoms for which are as you describe. Trying to diagnose the problem remotely is, as there is obviously more than one issue, getting to a point where confusion will result.
            To test if the pump is pumping, locate the bleed point for the water system, Early models it's on the thermostat housing,( probably yours), later ones it's found on the two thin pipes on the left of the engine bay looing like a wheel valve cap. With the engine cold and running with the coolant level full open the bleed point, water should spurt out with some force, if it doesn't the pump may not be doing its job. If it proves to be the pump you need to get it checks asap as you risk it jamming and as its driven by the cam belt you'll have allsorts of trouble if you strip the belt.
            I think time to have the engine inspected by a mechanic, tell him what you think, no mechanic worth his salt will mind hearing other peoples ideas.
            Ant

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              #36
              Yes you have two options.
              a. fill it up with water - stick it on gumtree and pass it on to the next chump.
              b. take it to a good mechanic with all your findings. (And get it ALL sorted, new rad, thermostat and pump? and drive away a happy, if poorer, man.)
              Last edited by llywelyn1984; 04-10-2017, 08:40 AM.

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